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why is my lynx black cat cutting machine messing up my cuts

PrettyEyes_1107PrettyEyes_1107 Member Posts: 3
Hi good evening I need help with my cuts every time I cut on my vinyl it messes it  up I don't know if my needle pressure is too high please help

Answers

  • Crazy_Mr_ZingCrazy_Mr_Zing Member Posts: 2,804
    What software are you using ?
    Has it just started doing this after previously cutting successfully or it the fist time you've cut this material ?
    Can you attach a photo?
    What force and speed setting are you using ?

    vinyl doesn't usual require much force

    I have no experience with the back cat so cannot offer help in regard to force or speed settings

    Your blade should be exposed just enough to penetrate the vinyl no more is you peel back the vinyl on your previous cuts and see the blade has marked the backing sheet the blade is too far exposed
    I Use Zing Air, Make The Cut - Pop Card Studio, WinXP- Win7 -Win10
    Paper Modellers I Revere Marc Hagan-Guirey ----- Yoshinobu Miyamoto ----- Peter Dahmen
    Gallery ID #26944 ----- Link to My Cloud Have a Look your Welcome to Make Use of the Files
  • MeFlickMeFlick Member Posts: 9,009
    Welcome to the Make the Cut software support forum.  You have unfortunately  not really given us enough details to provide you with much help beyond asking simple follow-up questions as Mr_Zing has started with.

    Are you new to cutting with this machine?  Is it a new machine or new to you?  What force and speed settings are you using?  How intricate of a design are you trying to cut? There are lots of different types and brands of vinyl. What brand and type are you cutting?  Indoor wall vinyl?  Outdoor vinyl?  Vinyl to adhere to clothes which is known as Heat Transfer Vinyl (HTV)?  If HTV - did you know shiny side goes down on the mat and you mirror the design to cut and only cut through the vinyl - not through the shiny back side as that is your "carrier sheet"? Is this a design you created yourself or did you buy it or get it for free somewhere?  Not all designs are created well for cutting machines.

    The more details and information you can provide, the better we can start to try to give you some information and help with your issue.
    Go Vols!
    image
    Cutting with 18" Silver Bullet and a KNK Force (the rest are collecting dust!)
  • PrettyEyes_1107PrettyEyes_1107 Member Posts: 3
    Hi Crazy_Mr_Zing
    Sorry for the delay had been busy... Yes I am new to this machine the lynx was given to me by my brother and it was also given to him anyway its the first time I've used it I'm learning just by messing around with it I also was using the 3mil vinyl a reverse adhesive it's from the Cricut machine it has been sitting here at home for quite a while.  I was thinking that maybe it's too old or the blade could be old, not sharp enough I really don't know..... I really didn't want to spend any money on buying supplies until I was able to use it because I had a Cricut before and I ended up giving it away I was not able to use it the software I am using in Make the Cut I  the exposure of the blade is on level 3 and I have the (V) at 200mm
    and the (F) is at 119 and yes it does mark the backing of the sheet.  I just made these right now...Thank you for your time :)
  • Crazy_Mr_ZingCrazy_Mr_Zing Member Posts: 2,804
    Apart the obvious where thing when wrong the cuts does look to bad

    Your blade exposure needs to be set so it just long enough to penetrate the vinyl
    As vinyl is so thin the tip of the blade would be barely visible

    If you have too much blade exposed when cutting vinyl it tend to separate the vinyl from the backing sheet
    I'm not sure about the speed setting and I don't have that machine
    I find that cutting vinyl at too higher speed can also cause it to lift mainly at sharp corners

    This video shows the method i use to determine blade exposure
    with vinyl there no need to double it over
    it takes a little judgement which come with practice



    I Use Zing Air, Make The Cut - Pop Card Studio, WinXP- Win7 -Win10
    Paper Modellers I Revere Marc Hagan-Guirey ----- Yoshinobu Miyamoto ----- Peter Dahmen
    Gallery ID #26944 ----- Link to My Cloud Have a Look your Welcome to Make Use of the Files
  • PrettyEyes_1107PrettyEyes_1107 Member Posts: 3
    Thank you so much I did check my blade and it was too exposed it made a difference on the cut but it still messed it up just a little now I will check the pressure... I do have another question I did buy the program Make the Cut and for some reason, I can't weld or join my letters I have been trying and it won't let me the buttons are  not high lighted like they should be you think you can help me with that issue also and Thank You Again  :D :D
  • Crazy_Mr_ZingCrazy_Mr_Zing Member Posts: 2,804
    edited August 15
    The buttons will be grey out if you don't have any shape selected

    Do you have a copy of the Make the Cut Use manual ?

    I not 100% sure but I think your cutter maybe very similar to one of the KNK machine maybe @SandyMcC or @MeFlick can advise the version of user manual would best suit your machine 

    Here are some videos about joining and welding

    Make the Cut Software Tutorial - Welding and Joining Objects



    Make The Cut - Entering Text and Welding Letters



    and a few on mongrams

    Designing Interlocking Letters for a Monogram


    Make The Cut - Creating a Rounded Monogram





    I Use Zing Air, Make The Cut - Pop Card Studio, WinXP- Win7 -Win10
    Paper Modellers I Revere Marc Hagan-Guirey ----- Yoshinobu Miyamoto ----- Peter Dahmen
    Gallery ID #26944 ----- Link to My Cloud Have a Look your Welcome to Make Use of the Files
  • SandyMcCSandyMcC Member Posts: 7,064
     As I recall, the closest KNK to the Lynx is the KNK Groove.  Start with it and then still ask lots of questions here.  You'll get the help you need.

    http://www.iloveknk.com/0um/Groove-with-MTC/Groove-with-MTC.pdf

    Sandy McCauley
    Cutting with KNK Force, Maxx Air, Zing Orbit
    Need help with your KNK? Visit this link: http://knkusa.com/contact/
    Over 90 free MTC videos: http://www.iloveknk.com/support/mtc-support/
    Latest KNK / MTC User Manuals: http://www.iloveknk.com/Support/user-manuals/
  • MeFlickMeFlick Member Posts: 9,009
    As already noted - that is way too much blade exposure for cutting vinyl - it should be at the least amount.  The Velocity (V) or speed for those intricate of letters may be a little too much and you might want to slow down (especially since you are new to this machine and trying to figure it out.) The downward Force (F) or pressure setting is probably also way too high.  It can vary from machine to machine, and other variables come into play in finding the right Force to use like how old and used the blade is thus making it duller, the duller it is the more that can be needed. The condition of the mat - not sticky enough, etc.  If this is a blade that came with the machine, and you don't know how much use it has had you could have a blade issue.  Plus, too much blade exposure, too much force, etc. it is possible to blunt or break the tip of a blade - especially if it is cutting into the mat.

    Also, the older vinyl is, especially wall vinyl, the more likely it is to have it lift off of its backing sheet.  You can use a brayer to roll the vinyl down on its backing and when adhering it to the mat so that it adheres and stays down better.  You can also use blue painters tape on the edges of vinyl to help ensure it is held down as well.

    Also, while you are testing, figuring out the machine don't start with that project with fancy letters - start with basic shapes. While you may have used a Cricut before, these are totally different machines that require the user to work more at finding the optimal settings for blade depth, exposure, force, speed, etc. for the different media you may wish to cut.  Referring to the UM Sandy linked above should help you with that.

    As far as the welding and joining of letters - "weld" and "join" are two different tools/features in MTC.  There is no "grouping" feature.  "Join" will sort of "group" objects but be sure you read the section in the UM that explains how "join" works.  Weld will "melt" overlapping "edges" of shapes or letters together to make one "new" object from the two BUT you have to manually move those two objects or letters together so that they overlap where you want them welded first.  (This is one step that new users don't always understand or know which is why I point this out.) Also, you can only weld two objects together at one time.  You can "join" multiple objects together first, which will then recognize them as "one" object to be welded.
    Go Vols!
    image
    Cutting with 18" Silver Bullet and a KNK Force (the rest are collecting dust!)
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